Elyssa Heller is a pandemic pop-up success story. She started selling hand-rolled bagels and dishes inspired by the Jewish diaspora out of Paulie Gee’s pizzeria in 2020 before opening Edith’s Sandwich Counter in Williamsburg, where the menu is tight but clever: egg sandwiches on bagels, breakfast wraps on Yemeni flatbread and deli classics like tuna melts and pastrami on rye. Their most popular sandwich is the bacon, egg and cheese on a bagel, the platonic ideal of hangover food, with an added latke layer. It may not be kosher, but it’s texturally thrilling — the bagel chewy, eggs impossibly fluffy, the latke doing that crunchy-outside, creamy-inside thing that will cure what ails you