The New Yorker

Newish Jewish, at Kossar’s and Beyond – The New Yorker

On a recent morning at Edith’s Eatery & Grocery, in Williamsburg, a full-service restaurant that evolved from a pandemic pop-up, I counted three babies. The daytime-only menu explores the Jewish diaspora: Russian pancakes, exceptionally fluffy with farmer’s cheese; Romanian steak and eggs; malawach, a flaky Yemeni Jewish flatbread. On the shelves, which enclose café tables in charming nooks, Tam Tams crackers and the individually wrapped honey-sesame candies that my grandpa used to carry in his pocket share space with CBD Turkish delight and bottles of avocado oil, bridging the generational gap.